rtitmuss's Torn Keyboard (torn v3)
Check the video of this build
Check the final product
- Sort the parts
- Ordering the PCB
- Solder diodes
- Solder resistors
- Solder zenner diodes
- Solder Electrolytic capacitor
- Solder capacitors
- Solder crystal oscillator
- Solder fuse
- Solder leds
- Solder reset buttons
- Solder IC sockets
- Solder TRRS jacks
- Solder USBC jack
- Inserting ICs
- Solder oled
- Install/Configure QMK
- Burn Bootloader
- Compile/Flash Firmware
- Solder hot-swaps
- Solder rotary encoders
- Mount the case
Part list (Original)
- 1x Torn PCBs Printed mine on jlcpcb
- 1x Torn Case Printed mine on jlcpcb
- 1x Torn Plate Laser cut mine on Brazil
- 42x Keycaps - 1u x 42
- 42x Holy Pandas switches
- 42x Kailh Hot-swappable PCB Socket Sip For Mechanical Keyboard
- 42x Diodes 1N4148
- 2x Diodes Zenner 3V6
- 2x Ceramic Capacitor 22pf
- 3x Ceramic Capacitor 100nf
- 1x Electrolytic Capacitor 4.7uf
- 1x Fuse MF-R050
- 1x 16MHz Crystal Oscillator
- 1x MCP23017 DIP-28
- 1x ATMEGA328P DIP-28
- 2x DIP-28 Socket
- 1x 1.5k Resistor
- 2x 75R Resistor
- 1x 10k Resistor
- 5x 5.1k Resistor
- 2x 2.2k Resistor
- 3x Leds
- 2x Push Button H 4.5MM + 6X6mm DIP Series
- 2x Rotary Encoders 15mm
- 2x Knobs
- 1x OLED 128X32 OLED Display Module 0.91" IIC Communicate for ardunio
- 2x 3.5MM Headphone TRRS Jack Socket Female Connector
- 1x USB Type-C 3.1 Receptacle 16 Pin DIP Female Socket
- 4x 2.54mm Pin Header Female Single Row 40
- 1x 1m 4 pole Stero audio cable Car AUX MP3/MP4 3.5mm male to male
- 10x Spacers M2 3mm Female-Female
- 6x Spacers M2 8mm Female-Female
- 16x Spacers M2 3mm Male-Female
- 6x Screws M2 6mm
- 26x Screws M2 4mm
I really recomend jlcpcb service for this, the process is straight forward and you just need to download the precompiled gerber here, upload, select your color and you good to go.
In the gerber link you can find the gerber for the pcb and the top and down plates for the case.
This part has a specific orientation, the black bar on the diode goes on the squared hole.
Apart from the orientation, this component is very straight forward.
After clipping the legs, this is how the back of the PCB should looks like.
First I soldered all 5.1k resistors. (Green - Brown - Red)
2 goes in the PCB of the left side and other 3 on the PCB of the right.
Then I moved to the 2.2k resistors. (Red - Red - Red)
The lonely 10k resistor of this build. (Brown - Black - Orange)
The fancy two 75R resistors. (Purple - Green - Black)
Progress with the 1.5k resistor. (Brown - Green - Red)
This part has a specific orientation, the black bar on the diode goes on the squared hole.
This part has a specific orientation, the longer leg goes on the squared hole.
Insert the capacitor and fold it until it touches the PCB.
Ceramic capacitor don't have specific orientation, just insert the two 22pF in the holes.
The three 100nf capacitors (yellow) in both PCBs.
The crystal don't have specific orientation.
The fuse don't have specific orientation, insert the fuse and fold it until it touches the PCB.
This part has a specific orientation, the shorter leg goes on the squared hole.
The reset/boot buttons don't have specific orientation.
This part has a specific orientation, the notch on the IC sockets must be pointing UP.
Close up on the sockets installed.
This TRRS jack that I found in Aliexpress has some extra legs.
I had to remove the extra legs marked in the red circle.
One of the hardest parts of this build, I just used a lot of flux and small amount of solder and the drag technique.
Detail on the soldering of the port pins, some will bridge because the traces and is fine.
Just push the IC in the sockets mind the that the notch needs to be pointing UP.
ATMEGA328P on the left and MCP23017 in the right.
This part is optional, but is very cool.
To install the qmk firmware do the following:
# Clone
git clone https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware.git
cd qmk_firmware
./util/qmk_install.sh
For more information and troubleshooting check the official documents
For this part I highly recommend to to follow the official build log
Cables connected in Torn's ICSP:
- Green is on pin 1
- Red is on pin 2
- White is on pin 3
- Orange is on pin 4
- Blue is on pin 5
- Blue is on pin 6
Cables connected in Arduino's ICSP:
- Green is on pin 1
- Red is on pin 2
- White is on pin 3
- Orange is on pin 4
- nothing pin 5
- Blue is on pin 6
The Pin 10 is connected to Torn ICSP pin 5.
This protoboard is optional I used to debug the flashing process more information about it here
Pins GND, 9, 8 and 7 going to the protoboard.
First enter bootloader mode by:
- Plug in the TRRS cable to connect the left and right sides for the keyboard
- Plug in USB C cable between the keyboard and your PC
- Push and hold RESET SW
- Push and hold BOOT SW
- Release RESET SW
- Release BOOT SW
You can then program QMK using:
sudo make torn:default:flash
First put some solder in one of the pads.
Then insert the hot-swaps and pressing down with your finger heat the solder applied before in the pad, you will feel that the hotswap moving down.
Finish soldering the other side.
The rotary encoder has two legs that I need to remove.
Yeap, those ones. I bended then before cutting off.
As recommended in the official build guide, I applied some insulation surrounding the encoder.
The PCB with the rotary encoder soldered.
You can solder the encoder any time, because they pass thought the top case plate.
Encoder touches the plate, that's why you need the insulation.
You need to make a sandwich with a female-male 3mm spacer + PCB + female-female 3mm spacer.
Detail on the bottom plate, as you can see I forgot one screw in the top right.
Left PCB with Top and bottom plates installed.
Some glamour shoots for the finished build, I loved building this keyboard and it will be my daily driver.
Some of my father's resin artisans.
My crkbd, will definitely retire.